New PC input?

[Bruno]

https://pcpartpicker.com/p/3tcto

Going to Sli the 770 and double the ram later on.

Thoughts?

[Apocist]

So you like building from the ground up? I'm more of an improvements person, and update each piece over time. Using the old parts into a second computer

[oops_ur_dead]

Don't spend so much money on something that you're not even going to care about in a year.

Also why the fuck are you buying Windows.

[Apocist]

Don't spend so much money on something that you're not even going to care about in a year.

Also why the fuck are you buying Windows.

I bought windows, is that so wrong? (I don't recommend OEM tho)

[Bruno]

Because I'm not a dirty boy, oops.

And apo,I left the computer I have now go for life 6 years without updating. Trying to get a build I can run watch dogs on like e3 2012

[Helz]

Shell out for a larger power supply if you ever want to be able to upgrade. Otherwise when you do you will find yourself getting that part and a new power supply.

[Bruno]

That power supply supports 2 770s :P I think it'll do okay

[Admiral]

CPU and GPU: Plenty powerful enough for whatever you want probably.

RAM: You'll want to bump that ram to something with at least 1600Mhz. G Skill makes good 8 GB around that same price. Corsair also probably makes other 8 GB kits in that range. 1333 isn't bad but there's not much difference in price between that and 1600/1866 and it's probably worth doing a little more in-depth research on prices you can find. 2133 isn't really necessary and anything beyond 2133 is probably a waste of your money if you're not made of it.

HD: I cannot vouch for the quality of a Hitachi hard drive but if you can find a similarly priced Western Digital I would definitely get it. Possibly even a Seagate. Do you plan to fill all 2TB?

SSD prices have been falling recently. I've seen several really good quality ~240GB drives going for $100-120.

Edit:

Where is the motherboard?

[Psyduck]

Because I'm not a dirty boy, oops.

And apo,I left the computer I have now go for life 6 years without updating. Trying to get a build I can run watch dogs on like e3 2012

whatever you do don't listen to oops, he's an idiot doesn't know anything...

[oops_ur_dead]

whatever you do don't listen to oops, he's an idiot doesn't know anything...

Okay doubledicksinass.

RAM: You'll want to bump that ram to something with at least 1600Mhz. G Skill makes good 8 GB around that same price. Corsair also probably makes other 8 GB kits in that range. 1333 isn't bad but there's not much difference in price between that and 1600/1866 and it's probably worth doing a little more in-depth research on prices you can find. 2133 isn't really necessary and anything beyond 2133 is probably a waste of your money if you're not made of it.

There are more cost-effective upgrades you can spend the money on.

HD: I cannot vouch for the quality of a Hitachi hard drive but if you can find a similarly priced Western Digital I would definitely get it. Possibly even a Seagate. Do you plan to fill all 2TB?

SSD prices have been falling recently. I've seen several really good quality ~240GB drives going for $100-120.

This so much. Don't buy a 2TB hard drive and then throw your OS and stuff on it. That's just asking for it to fail and then you lose all your shit. Besides, there's a huge difference between an SSD and a hard drive and you'll definitely notice it.

Where is the motherboard?

lol'd

[Apocist]

Put your OS and important games on an SSD, everything else less important and storage on a HDD

[Bruno]

Lmao, the motherboard choice didn't save. Updating now.

PS: Yeah, I'll definitely use at least a full terabyte in my Steam library alone.

https://pcpartpicker.com/p/3uiPt is the updated link.

Admiral, I respect your opinion on all things PC, so just modify that built and then post a link to it so I can just click it.

[oops_ur_dead]

PS: Yeah, I'll definitely use at least a full terabyte in my Steam library alone.

What the fuck?

Few things:
1) Why do you need liquid cooling? Don't tell me you plan to overclock because your CPU has a locked multiplier so you won't be overclocking much. Honestly on stock speeds you can get by with the stock cooler but I guess wasting as much money as possible is an objective with this build.
2) If you store 3TB worth of shit on your everyday PC on a single hard drive (and a fucking Seagate hard drive at that) you're retarded and deserve inevitably losing all your files.
3) You don't need a CPU that powerful, it's gonna get bottlenecked by your memory/GPU. Get a cheaper CPU like an i5 and put the money towards a better graphics card.
4) ASRock is shit.

[oops_ur_dead]

K I made a new parts list for you: https://pcpartpicker.com/p/3ulvH
Changes are:
CPU is now i5 4670K which is unlocked so you can overclock and it's basically the same if not better performance-wise as the one you had (https://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/523?vs=837) while costing $100 cheaper.
Got rid of liquid cooling cause you'll never need it, got you a cheaper fan.
No more shit overpriced ASSRock garbage, now you have Asus rock solid motherboard.
Twice as large SSD that's also significantly faster (https://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/637?vs=839).
GTX 780 instead of GTX 770.
Same price.

I kept the hard drive despite it being a really retarded choice because I knew if I changed it then you'd throw a shit fit.

[Admiral]

I didn't make a suggestion on the CPU because I wasn't sure if you already had a motherboard or not since it wasn't in the part listing and the processors are different socket types iirc without looking. The 4670K that oops posted is quite solid however. I also wont say don't watercool, but I will say that I don't mess with it.

I don't know if I can recommend a 780 over the 770 if you no matter what planned to SLI 770's later(how much later?). What's the budget? Right now 3-4GB isn't super important... with one monitor at least. But later? Well, we might see higher amounts of vram get more use.

Bottom line: "@ 1080P" Alone, the 780 whoops the 770. In SLI the 770s will beat the 780. in SLI the 780s will cost you a loan. How much do you want to spend?

Edit: Just saw the motherboard you put in. Definitely should change both of those pieces now. The motherboards are all so expensive!

Do you live near a Microcenter?

https://www.microcenter.com/product/4...%2fAMD+-+Top+2 (pretty good sale)

Edit 2:

Alternate build with 780 - https://pcpartpicker.com/p/3uuGe ($1474-$1568 depending on merchants)
Same build with 770 - https://pcpartpicker.com/p/3uuK0 ($1373-$1486 depending on merchants)

Thoughts:
- What parts do you already have? Don't buy stuff you don't need. Do you really need another copy of Windows?
- Buy the SSD later. They have been going on sale a lot recently. You could probably chop another $40 off of the $160 listed. I priced my custom SSD at $130. I think if you watch a bit you'll get another one for that price.
- Without a budget it's hard to pick the exact right parts.

[oops_ur_dead]

I didn't make a suggestion on the CPU because I wasn't sure if you already had a motherboard or not since it wasn't in the part listing and the processors are different socket types iirc without looking. The 4670K that oops posted is quite solid however. I also wont say don't watercool, but I will say that I don't mess with it.

I don't know if I can recommend a 780 over the 770 if you no matter what planned to SLI 770's later(how much later?). What's the budget? Right now 3-4GB isn't super important... with one monitor at least. But later? Well, we might see higher amounts of vram get more use.

Bottom line: "@ 1080P" Alone, the 780 whoops the 770. In SLI the 770s will beat the 780. in SLI the 780s will cost you a loan. How much do you want to spend?

Edit: Just saw the motherboard you put in. Definitely should change both of those pieces now. The motherboards are all so expensive!

Do you live near a Microcenter?

https://www.microcenter.com/product/4...%2fAMD+-+Top+2 (pretty good sale)

Edit 2:

Alternate build with 780 - https://pcpartpicker.com/p/3uuGe ($1474-$1568 depending on merchants)
Same build with 770 - https://pcpartpicker.com/p/3uuK0 ($1373-$1486 depending on merchants)

Thoughts:
- What parts do you already have? Don't buy stuff you don't need. Do you really need another copy of Windows?
- Buy the SSD later. They have been going on sale a lot recently. You could probably chop another $40 off of the $160 listed. I priced my custom SSD at $130. I think if you watch a bit you'll get another one for that price.
- Without a budget it's hard to pick the exact right parts.

Im curious as to why you have two hard drives from different manufacturers. You're not going to see very much of a speed boost from a WD Caviar Black vs a Seagate Barracuda, especially not for the $30 difference you're paying. Otherwise you've got solid choices.

[Bruno]

I need a new copy of Windows, because the computer I have now didn't come with a CD for it, it just came preinstalled. I could -in theory- use the same video card I have, but it's a 6770. A few years ago I was happy with it, but I'm trying to get a build that will be able to run the next-gen games coming out, like GTA V on PC, Watch Dogs, The Division, etc.

Will the HAF 912 be big enough for SLI 780s?

Also, I wanted the H100i because I was planning on overclocking the CPU to around 4.6 GHz, and I knew that the H100i was capable of keeping it cool from various articles I read. I really like the build Admiral came up with though, it's cheaper than what I originally projected while still giving me the same performance.

As for buying the 2nd card, I'm planning on buying it maybe 5 weeks after getting the initial stuff, I just want the build in my hands as soon as possible, so I figured no sense in waiting until I can afford more ram and another GPU when I can already play as is.

No, I don't live near a Microcenter. Closest one is about 2 hours away, and after gas and toll fees I'll probably be back in the same boat.

I really like Admiral's recommendation since it's cheaper than the one Oops gave me, but I was curious too why two hard drives instead of a hard drive and SSD.

[oops_ur_dead]

I was planning on overclocking the CPU to around 4.6 GHz

Why?

[Admiral]

Im curious as to why you have two hard drives from different manufacturers. You're not going to see very much of a speed boost from a WD Caviar Black vs a Seagate Barracuda, especially not for the $30 difference you're paying. Otherwise you've got solid choices.

I trust the WD Black to be accessed more. It also. He says he's going to use over 1TB, so I added a second one for good measure. I could have put the $50 WD Blue 1TB. but I found it after I had that list made. I would replace the Seagate with the WD Blue.

[Admiral]

I need a new copy of Windows, because the computer I have now didn't come with a CD for it, it just came preinstalled. I could -in theory- use the same video card I have, but it's a 6770. A few years ago I was happy with it, but I'm trying to get a build that will be able to run the next-gen games coming out, like GTA V on PC, Watch Dogs, The Division, etc.

Will the HAF 912 be big enough for SLI 780s?

Also, I wanted the H100i because I was planning on overclocking the CPU to around 4.6 GHz, and I knew that the H100i was capable of keeping it cool from various articles I read. I really like the build Admiral came up with though, it's cheaper than what I originally projected while still giving me the same performance.

As for buying the 2nd card, I'm planning on buying it maybe 5 weeks after getting the initial stuff, I just want the build in my hands as soon as possible, so I figured no sense in waiting until I can afford more ram and another GPU when I can already play as is.

No, I don't live near a Microcenter. Closest one is about 2 hours away, and after gas and toll fees I'll probably be back in the same boat.

I really like Admiral's recommendation since it's cheaper than the one Oops gave me, but I was curious too why two hard drives instead of a hard drive and SSD.

$130 of that cost is actually an SSD. You just don't see it because technically at this moment there isn't one on sale. Buy that piece separate.

[Bruno]

Why?

Because I'm trying to get the best bang for my buck, so to speak. I was going to process Physx on the CPU.

[Bruno]

Oh yeah, and since I have to remove the hard drive cage to accommodate the larger card, where will I put the hard drives?

[oops_ur_dead]

Because I'm trying to get the best bang for my buck, so to speak. I was going to process Physx on the CPU.

That's a really dumb idea. Your graphics card will do the job far more efficiently

Oh yeah, and since I have to remove the hard drive cage to accommodate the larger card, where will I put the hard drives?

In the 5.25" bays.

I trust the WD Black to be accessed more. It also. He says he's going to use over 1TB, so I added a second one for good measure. I could have put the $50 WD Blue 1TB. but I found it after I had that list made. I would replace the Seagate with the WD Blue.

There isnt much of a difference between the Blacks and the Blues. I wouldn't get two hard drives unless you're doing RAID. Although I've said before that buying a large hard drive and putting all your shit there is a retarded idea, having two drives just means that one is going to fail slightly earlier than the other.

Lemme make this easier to understand for bruno: Seagate drives have an average age of 1.4 years with an annual failure rate of 10%. This means that you have a roughly 1 in 5 chance of your hard drive failing within the first two years and losing all your shit. Since you decided to buy a 3TB drive that means you're probably gonna keep it for a while, let's say 5 years. With that you have a 40% chance of your drive failing.

Or you can be smart and buy 3 1TB hard drives, and put them in RAID5 which your motherboard has support for. This'll give you 2TB of space with redundancy, so if one drive fails you still keep your data and your motherboard will let you know so you can replace the failed drive and rebuild the array. You'll get twice as much read and write performance as each drive alone because of striping, so you can buy cheap drives and still have faster performance than buying a super gamer-class hard drive. And it'll only run you about $180 for all three drives, only marginally more expensive than the other options. Sure you can say that you'll buy an external hard drive and do backups onto that, but then it'll end up costing you more in total than buying the three drives.

[Bruno]

That's a really dumb idea. Your graphics card will do the job far more efficiently



In the 5.25" bays.



There isnt much of a difference between the Blacks and the Blues. I wouldn't get two hard drives unless you're doing RAID. Although I've said before that buying a large hard drive and putting all your shit there is a retarded idea, having two drives just means that one is going to fail slightly earlier than the other.

Oops, what if I buy just one hard drive and then buy an external hard drive? Put all my games and shit on the external hard drive and then removing them from my internal hard drive, and whenever I want to start playing a game again or some shit I just hook it up to a USB 3.0 socket and transfer that game?

[oops_ur_dead]

Oops, what if I buy just one hard drive and then buy an external hard drive? Put all my games and shit on the external hard drive and then removing them from my internal hard drive, and whenever I want to start playing a game again or some shit I just hook it up to a USB 3.0 socket and transfer that game?

That's a better idea. Read my edit and you'll see another possibility, which is a little more advanced but is also a good option.

Keep in mind though that if you do go with that option you should back up your important stuff on the external drive too. The main concern is that with only one drive it's gonna be pounded 24/7 which leads to failure.

[Bruno]

Okay. This is now the build I'm currently looking at.

https://pcpartpicker.com/p/3uA0D